How to choose a backup device?

When securing rope climbing, a safety device is always required. Security devices are available in both manual and automatic locking. Here are instructions for choosing the right backup device for you.

MANUAL SECURITY DEVICES

Manual or tube-type safety devices are suitable for almost all types of climbing. In a manual securing device, the rope passes through the device as well as the locking ring and the brake is handled by the hands of the insurer. Friction occurs when a bent rope passes through a securing device. There are various types of tube-type securing devices, some of which, for example, have a small toothing to increase friction. Often the name of the manual backup device is usedATC, which is actually a manual locking device manufactured by Black Diamond. It is so common that the name is well established to describe almost all manual backup devices.

Almost all tube models have space for two ropes. This is a necessary feature when climbing on half or double ropes. That's why the tube-type safety device is perfect for multi-pitch climbing.
On some ATC models like the Black Diamond, for exampleATC Guide the model has a feature that automatically locks the device from above when securing the second.

Benefits:

• Compact and light
• Can be secured with two ropes at the same time
• Can be used for double rope landing.

Disadvantages

• Do not lock automatically in the event of a fall

AUTOMATICALLY LOCKING SECURITY DEVICES

Automatic locking devices are designed to lock in the event of a fall. There are two different types: self-locking safety devices with moving parts and passive self-locking safety devices.

Of the devices with moving parts, the rope is wound around an eccentric, which, when the climber falls, presses the rope against the safety device and the safety device locks. The locked device is usually released by a separate handle, which allows the eccentric to be turned back and the rope to pass through. The best known of such devices is PetzlGRIGRI +. It is a very handy device for sports climbing, for example. Confirming the design with GRIGRI is much more pleasant than with a standard tube-type safety device. The disadvantage of such devices is usually that they are relatively heavy and only suitable for securing with a single rope.

In passive devices, locking occurs when the locking ring presses the rope against the securing device. These devices are usually lighter than the backup devices mentioned above. One example of such a device is AUSTRIALPINFish Autotuber backup device.

Benefits:

• Used safely, very safe
• Lowering a climber is often easier.

Disadvantages:

• Often not suitable for securing with half and double ropes
• Are often heavier than tube-type safety devices.

When choosing any backup device, always read the instructions for use of the device carefully and always make sure with the right technology.

Read more about the choice of climbing equipment

• How to choose a climbing helmet?
• How to choose a climbing rope?